This is our earliest start for a train journey – 0634. A bit bleary eyed, but no drama getting up and out and onto the train. It was a reason I’d booked the apartment so close to the station – very good decision.
The train was on time, was quite small – 4 carriages, I think (although they had big numbers – wagon 349, 350, 351, our first class one was 352). Most of wagon 352 was a baggage car. 2nd class looked pretty old school rolling stock, but our carriage was very comfortable. Toilet and at-seat power, but no drinks or snacks on board in any form. For a five hour journey, that is a bit surprising.
Actually, a lady with a trolley did turn up – quite a few options, including beer and sandwiches, but we had snacks in the bag, so just had a couple of coffees.
Also, the most thorough ticket checking yet. In Poland, the conductor checked pass, seat reservations and passports (I was ready for him). Then whilst we were in Czechia, the passes were checked again, and then again once we were on Austrian territory.
The arrival in Vienna was not very welcoming. We found the left luggage lockers easily enough…but they were all either full, or the control screen was broken with a big “aus ordnung” sticker on them. So I fired Google maps up and found left luggage places nearby which are just shops cashing in on the clearly long-standing situation! 35 euros for 5 bags for a handful of hours. Oh, and it was so hot!
We met Mamy and Papy along the way (I could tell they weren’t very impressed at us stashing our worldly possessions in an ill-smelling and highly dubious electronics repair & miscellaneous minor crimes store, and to be honest, neither was I, but one doesn’t always get what one wants.
We headed to the Belvedere Palace and the Greek restaurant Aurélie had booked, which had an excellent air-conditioned section – life-saver. We got on the outside of some meatballs, tzatsiki and beer and thus fortified, strolled to the Upper Belvedere which hosts The Kiss, plus a bunch of other Klimt and a few Van Goghs, Monets, Schieles uzw.
After that, we really were hoping to find a park with water – foolishly, we hadn’t put the swim stuff in the day pack, and we ended up finding a Freibad which was a great option – the only snag being the girls weren’t really allowed to be wearing their clothes in the pool. It was so hot though, this was the right thing to do, and they managed to stay discreet and no major issues arose. The adults kept a watchful eye and lounged on the grass and drank water – if the pool had had a bar selling Aperol Spritz, they would have made a killing.
A damp walk for the girls back to get the bags, then a tricky tram ride to Westbahnhof – we could see a tram (line 0), but citymapper didn’t do a good job of pointing out line 18 went from another stop underground…still, a very helpful lady helped us (and another lost couple) to literally get on the right track.
The hostel is…basic. Not helped by a powerful aroma of BO around the reception at check-in, but fortunately that wasn’t a permanent feature! Further friction on having to fill in a fiddly form when he’s already confirmed he knows everything already as we’ve done it all online. Then he needs a deposit for the keycard. 5 euros. Cash. We haven’t used cash AT ALL over the preceding 8 countries. This will become a very annoying theme in Vienna.
We went to the restaurant on the corner for dinner – excellent schnitzel and really nice beer. All great… until the bill arrives. 102 euros. Cash only. WTF? Fortunately between us, we had enough, but Christ Almighty, it’s 2024!
Timsformational 